Pattern Review: The Yaya Han Underbust Corset (M7339)

Hello beautiful people! Long time, no see! For the second year in a row, I attended Costume College out in Woodland Hills. It's a wonderful set of seminars run by and for costumers (a lot of them historical) over the course of a weekend. It's also a chance for costumers to show off their various creations from the rest of the year: it's nice for me, because it means I can break out all my non-cosplay costumes. There are two main events, the Friday Night Social and the Gala, both of which are usually themed.

This year, the Friday Night Social's theme was "Run Away To The Circus", which let my spooky little heart run wild with dark circus things. Since I had lost so much weight (32 pounds at the point of starting this costume) I couldn't just pull something from my closet: instead, I would have to make something new. Strapped for cash and in love with the beautiful product that Hustle and Bustle Cosplay turns out on a regular basis from her stash, I challenged her and myself to a #cheapcostumechallenge, which you may have seen me posting about on my Instagram. On top of being cheap, I needed it to be quick: I started about two and a half weeks before Costume Collage, and so I opted to use patterns over draping everything.

After digging through my stash of patterns and fabrics. I designed with two rules in mind: I had to use fabrics I had (a bit hard since I have odd widths of fabric), and I had to be able to reincorporate the pieces back into my daily wardrobe (surprisingly easy, as I am a very spooky person). I decided I would use it as an opertunity to try out the Yaya Han underbust corset pattern, Mccall's M7339, and write up a review on it. Here's how it turned out:

Photos Courtesy Catamancy Cosplay; Pictured Left to Right are The Penguin Knight, Me, and Jory

I made some adjustments to the pattern as I went. First of all, as someone who has made corsets for people as gifts and who is rapidly changing size, I didn't want to cut out my size in the pattern: the way the pattern is laid out on the tissue, you can only cut one size. So I traced it off using wax paper.

Secondly, I cut down the back of the pattern at the first fitting stage. I didn't like the height of the pattern in the back for the lines of the underbust corset: that said, I would absolutely keep it on if you intend to make the overbust version, or if you have a lot of volume to your back. 

The pattern calls for steel boning. We all know I was on the cheap costume challenge, so I opted to use what I had for boning: industrial strength plastic electrical zipties. You can buy these suckers cheap at your local Home Depot or Lowes, or order them online. You just want to be sure to get the heavier weight, in 1/4" or 1/2" width. You can cut them with great effort with regular scissors (do not under any circumstances use your shears), or I have recently heard that pet nail clippers work ecellently, but have not tried this method. Round off the corners by clipping, filing or melting them. 

To her credit, Yaya does say you can use plastic boning, but doesn't really specify what it is or where to get it. I also didn't cut using her length specifications, I just adjusted them to each casing as I went. I also added casings 3/4" from the center back (so the grommets have extra support) and to the side front pieces and middle front pieces: the instructions only called for casing on one side of these seams, so I added one to each. I also added a waist tape and don't like how she does the finishing, particularly the bias. I'll get into that in the "Is there a better way" section.

I couldn't resist a ridiculous shot.

Now, lets dive in:

Pattern Used: McCall's MP7339

View: View A, Underbust Corset without Contrast.

Size: Cut Size 20, ended up taking in significantly.

Fabric Used: Cotton Lining, Duck Canvas, Lightweight Wool.

Clearness of Instructions: 5/5

The instructions are very clear: she doesn't throw around weird terms or try to over complicate things. The images are very clear, but be sure to keep track of which color indicates which layer. None of the steps seem nonsensical or unnecessary to the pattern, which is nice.

Ease of Assembly: 5/5 

The corset itself is easy to assemble, if you are careful with marking and matching your notches. The curves are very easy to match, and line up well. However, I do not know how easy it is to put in the cup. I would recommend basting a lot of your seams before you sew them if you are using a slippery fabric. I also forwent the interfacing, because again, I'm poor. If your under layer is a heavy duty fabric like coutil or canvas instead of the recommended muslin, you could also probably get away with that, as interfacing can be pricey if you aren't careful.

Quality of Fit: 4.5/5 

Firstly, let me mention that I could not find the finished waist measurement on the pattern envelope. If I have somehow missed it, please let me know. I did, however, find it on the center front piece of the pattern... After I cut the size 20 in every other piece. You will want to check this before you get started. There is also no waistline marked on the center front piece, making fitting a little harder. 

You also absolutely need to make a mock-up of this: I know I always recommend this, but with corsets it's doubly true. The pattern itself, even unaltered, gives good shape: there is quite a bit of curve to the waist, and the hips have plenty of room. I do recommend having a skilled friend fit you, and to decide if you want a gap at the back or not (see Better Way for more on gaps). I needed to take in the hips as my hips are non-existent. She gets dinged half a point for hard to find/a minor lack of detail.

Is There A Better Way?/Alterations for Others: 3/5 

Annnnd here's where I hop on the Complain Train. 

She finishes the edge of the corset by placing double fold bias tape down over the edge and machining it down. I understand that this is easier to explain, but it will be MUCH harder to make look smooth. I prefer to sew down one edge of the bias tape, right side to right side with the front, then flip it over to the back and then hand stitch it down. This allows you to adjust the tension as you go, making the front smoother than the result of simply sandwiching and machine stitching it down.

I cannot find anywhere she mentions this, but many corsets had a gap at the back, which allows the corset to be adjusted day to day. Most people are not the same size every day: people get bloated, lose weight, eat a plate of nachos, have a skinny day, etc, so I feel like a gap is absolutely something she should be mentioning. Traditionally, corsets have a 2" gap minimum: if you find you flux more than this, I would recommend 3", and widen the modesty panel to match. 

Speaking of modesty panels, you don't HAVE to put it in. If this corset is going to be an undergarment, you can forgo the modesty panel: do know that many larger people's flesh will crease along the spine when squished, so take that into account when you are debating your modesty panel.

Now for the big complaint. There is no busk in this pattern. Despite the fact the pattern tells you to go to an online corset supply retailer to order tipped steel boning, this pattern does not call for a separating busk. For people who are used to corsets, this is a minor inconvenience. For those who are making their first corset, hear my plea: be CAREFUL putting steel boning into something that doesn't have a separating busk, because you do NOT have a fast release hatch. Many people over-cinch their first time, and you can seriously hurt yourself. If you want to add a busk, plan to add 1" to the center front, and to assemble the corset in two halves. 

Overall: 17.5/20, B+

I do recommend this pattern. As far as the big pattern companies go, this had the best initial fit I have experienced. The shaping is great, and for beginners, it is a pretty good introduction to underbust corsets. I do have nitpicks with it, but they are things you can fix with knowledge and research.

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Wicked Fun: Preparations

I have a happy announcement to make: I will be cosplaying Drusilla from the latest version of Cinderella with Hustle and Bustle Cosplay and Ginger Lass Cosplay!

I'm super pumped! Already went shopping for fabric (I get to use the most fantastically obnoxious colors), draped and cut out the corset. We will be making the corset, bloomers, and dress, maybe even the shoes!

Anastasia and Drusilla Undergarment Fabrics

 Sizing Up the Corset.

 Labelling EVERYTHING is the most important part of a corset.

Gussets EVERYWHERE.

A post on corset construction is incoming, so be on the lookout for that!!

Young Flemeth: The Process

From start to finish, this has been a fun project: I wish I had remembered to take photos at all of the steps to give a more in depth tutorial! Instead, here's the process I went through to make her.

 I started with a basic sketch, which I inked. Initially, it was supposed to be an all-in-one garment. This would change later. 

Next, I refined the sketch and tested out two color schemes: At this point I would have had to make a separate under skirt and sleeves to create the effect I desired, so I decided to split the dress into two simpler dresses: an under-dress with light decoration, and an overdress with lots of decoration. 

I did a pair of leaves on the red under-dress: I thought of doing more, but since I was on a deadline for school, I decided I wanted to focus most of my effort on the outer-dress embroidery. I started with the vines around the neck, pictured here.

 

Then I applied the roses. The roses are made of silk taffeta cut on a bias, then folded in half and rolled into flowers. They were easier to make than I thought. Maybe I will posted a tutorial later!

And here are the final shots! The under-dress is red linen, and laces up the back. The overdress is a heavier rayon material, with the sleeves lined in the same red taffeta that the flowers are made of. The crystals on the belt are sea glass pieces that I covered myself, and the belt was a loan from a friend. I am hoping to later add a wig and horns to this piece, to make it more Flemeth-y. 

Mini Post: Steampunk Flashback

While poking through my files, I ended up stumbling upon my old steampunk costume: I have been meaning to go back and redo it so it's more wearable, but here's where it stands now.

The "correct" side: if you look closely, you may see my favorite assassin, The Penguin Knight.

The waist cincher was one of the first I ever made. It was also the first reversible garment I made.

Backstage at the Medieval Photoshoot

This project was actually a result of a class I took: the task for the class was to design and build a medieval styled garment. I decided to do a concept for a young Flemeth from the Dragon Age series of games. I will be doing a more in depth post on this later (from the start of the design post through the execution of the piece) but for now, here are some of the photos of the results of the class.

Here's my costume, in most of it's glory.

Left is Gina Crowley and me, Right is Jessika Rose and me.

We had a lot of time between pictures: Here's Ginger Lass Cosplay in her fantastic Merida outfit and me getting silly on stage.

Back-backstage was also a hoot: From left to right is Hustle and Bustle Cosplay (who was super helpful with hair and make up), Ginger Lass Cosplay again, and me, attempting to hide in her hair.

Mini Post: USO Girl

Here was a commission I finished in 2013 for Comic Con: the customer wanted a USO girl from Captain America: The First Avenger, but was also concerned about being cold in panels. Together, we can up with the solution of a small caplet, pictured below.

Here was the caplet...

And here it is with the dress.

Happy Friday!

 -B

The Ol' Pre 1600's Post

If you don't know me (or don't follow my Facebook page) you wouldn't know that I really enjoy making Medieval to Renaissance costumes, ranging from the very accurate to the completely fantastical.

Starting with the most period accurate, this is a cotehardie made off of a pattern of a dress found in a bog in Greenland.

 Now for a mix of accurate and inaccurate, here is my period Flemish kirtle and smock. The kilt and yoked shirt, however, are built for comfort: the kilt is made of cotton rather than a woolen fabric, and the shirt is a 1970's esque pattern that is more Renaissance Faire than it is Renaissance man.

Finally, a simple pouch. This pouch is a simple wool fabric cut in a circle, turned, eyeleted, and then embroidered.

If you're looking for another bit of the Renaissance, check out my Flynn Rider and Renaissance maiden post.

1920's Mini-Post

Happy Friday Everyone! I have been wanting to post this for awhile: the 1920's dress and underdress I made in a night for a birthday party a few years ago.

Here is the underdress. It was a stiff synthetic that let the outer layer hang loose.

Here is the final dress: I just happened to have the pearls and shoes lying around!

Have a good weekend,

-B

Hats Of Unusual Styles (And one ROUS)

Hats hats hats. Rats? Every so often, I get to make a hat (something that fills me with warm fuzzies and joy). And then once in a very blue moon, I get to make a rodent of unusual size.

First, the hats.

"I need an elf hat." He said. This was no problem to me; elves are easy. "Ok. That won't be a problem." I replied. "There's a catch. I need it to be ridiculous. the most ridiculous and potentially ugly elf hat ever." Thus, this hat was born. 

The model is Chris, grumpy elf of the southwest. The bell is really what brings it all together.

Of course, I don't just believe in hats for other people. 

Disclaimer: This hat was not built from scratch. Rather, it was assembled by the dark forces that be. It cost less than $8 to make, including the bird, net, spider, and the flower.

The crow side is definitely my good side. Probably.

I swear I can make normal faces. Just not in hat pictures. Here is the back, net and all. The net does occasionally snap on other things, but other than that there is no downside to this whole affair.

This was actually one of my favorite hats that I made: mostly because I made it from scratch. It was an amazing experience to see a hat from start to finish.

And now for something different.

Meet Ch'p, Green Lantern of Sector 1014. His appearance is based off of The Green Lantern animated movie, where he accompanies Arisia. He is assembled from parts from beaver, fox, and squirrel toys. I think his lantern symbol got swapped after this picture, but almost all of my photos from this period were wiped with my last phone.

Evelyn Nesbit (Fall 2013)

If there ever was a lady who deserved more recognition, it's Evelyn Nesbit. A cabinet card girl from the early 1900's, she was one of the first live models for fashion: she also was idealized as "The Gibson Girl" by Charles Gibson. 

Photo Courtesy Wikipedia

Most importantly (well, for this post anyways), she is a prominent character in the stage musical "Ragtime". I was fortunately enough to make the "swimsuit" style outfit for her Atlantic City scene. You will note that it is neither a period swim suit or an actual swimsuit: the director took this scene in a slightly more creatively liberal direction.

Front.

Back.

Side View. Unfortunately, I have no shots of this from the stage.