This year, the Friday Night Social's theme was "Run Away To The Circus", which let my spooky little heart run wild with dark circus things. Since I had lost so much weight (32 pounds at the point of starting this costume) I couldn't just pull something from my closet: instead, I would have to make something new. Strapped for cash and in love with the beautiful product that Hustle and Bustle Cosplay turns out on a regular basis from her stash, I challenged her and myself to a #cheapcostumechallenge, which you may have seen me posting about on my Instagram. On top of being cheap, I needed it to be quick: I started about two and a half weeks before Costume Collage, and so I opted to use patterns over draping everything.
After digging through my stash of patterns and fabrics. I designed with two rules in mind: I had to use fabrics I had (a bit hard since I have odd widths of fabric), and I had to be able to reincorporate the pieces back into my daily wardrobe (surprisingly easy, as I am a very spooky person). I decided I would use it as an opertunity to try out the Yaya Han underbust corset pattern, Mccall's M7339, and write up a review on it. Here's how it turned out:
Photos Courtesy Catamancy Cosplay; Pictured Left to Right are The Penguin Knight, Me, and Jory
I made some adjustments to the pattern as I went. First of all, as someone who has made corsets for people as gifts and who is rapidly changing size, I didn't want to cut out my size in the pattern: the way the pattern is laid out on the tissue, you can only cut one size. So I traced it off using wax paper.
Secondly, I cut down the back of the pattern at the first fitting stage. I didn't like the height of the pattern in the back for the lines of the underbust corset: that said, I would absolutely keep it on if you intend to make the overbust version, or if you have a lot of volume to your back.
The pattern calls for steel boning. We all know I was on the cheap costume challenge, so I opted to use what I had for boning: industrial strength plastic electrical zipties. You can buy these suckers cheap at your local Home Depot or Lowes, or order them online. You just want to be sure to get the heavier weight, in 1/4" or 1/2" width. You can cut them with great effort with regular scissors (do not under any circumstances use your shears), or I have recently heard that pet nail clippers work ecellently, but have not tried this method. Round off the corners by clipping, filing or melting them.
To her credit, Yaya does say you can use plastic boning, but doesn't really specify what it is or where to get it. I also didn't cut using her length specifications, I just adjusted them to each casing as I went. I also added casings 3/4" from the center back (so the grommets have extra support) and to the side front pieces and middle front pieces: the instructions only called for casing on one side of these seams, so I added one to each. I also added a waist tape and don't like how she does the finishing, particularly the bias. I'll get into that in the "Is there a better way" section.
I couldn't resist a ridiculous shot.
Now, lets dive in:
Pattern Used: McCall's MP7339
View: View A, Underbust Corset without Contrast.
Size: Cut Size 20, ended up taking in significantly.
Fabric Used: Cotton Lining, Duck Canvas, Lightweight Wool.
Clearness of Instructions: 5/5
The instructions are very clear: she doesn't throw around weird terms or try to over complicate things. The images are very clear, but be sure to keep track of which color indicates which layer. None of the steps seem nonsensical or unnecessary to the pattern, which is nice.
Ease of Assembly: 5/5
The corset itself is easy to assemble, if you are careful with marking and matching your notches. The curves are very easy to match, and line up well. However, I do not know how easy it is to put in the cup. I would recommend basting a lot of your seams before you sew them if you are using a slippery fabric. I also forwent the interfacing, because again, I'm poor. If your under layer is a heavy duty fabric like coutil or canvas instead of the recommended muslin, you could also probably get away with that, as interfacing can be pricey if you aren't careful.
Quality of Fit: 4.5/5
Firstly, let me mention that I could not find the finished waist measurement on the pattern envelope. If I have somehow missed it, please let me know. I did, however, find it on the center front piece of the pattern... After I cut the size 20 in every other piece. You will want to check this before you get started. There is also no waistline marked on the center front piece, making fitting a little harder.
You also absolutely need to make a mock-up of this: I know I always recommend this, but with corsets it's doubly true. The pattern itself, even unaltered, gives good shape: there is quite a bit of curve to the waist, and the hips have plenty of room. I do recommend having a skilled friend fit you, and to decide if you want a gap at the back or not (see Better Way for more on gaps). I needed to take in the hips as my hips are non-existent. She gets dinged half a point for hard to find/a minor lack of detail.
Is There A Better Way?/Alterations for Others: 3/5
Annnnd here's where I hop on the Complain Train.
She finishes the edge of the corset by placing double fold bias tape down over the edge and machining it down. I understand that this is easier to explain, but it will be MUCH harder to make look smooth. I prefer to sew down one edge of the bias tape, right side to right side with the front, then flip it over to the back and then hand stitch it down. This allows you to adjust the tension as you go, making the front smoother than the result of simply sandwiching and machine stitching it down.
I cannot find anywhere she mentions this, but many corsets had a gap at the back, which allows the corset to be adjusted day to day. Most people are not the same size every day: people get bloated, lose weight, eat a plate of nachos, have a skinny day, etc, so I feel like a gap is absolutely something she should be mentioning. Traditionally, corsets have a 2" gap minimum: if you find you flux more than this, I would recommend 3", and widen the modesty panel to match.
Speaking of modesty panels, you don't HAVE to put it in. If this corset is going to be an undergarment, you can forgo the modesty panel: do know that many larger people's flesh will crease along the spine when squished, so take that into account when you are debating your modesty panel.
Now for the big complaint. There is no busk in this pattern. Despite the fact the pattern tells you to go to an online corset supply retailer to order tipped steel boning, this pattern does not call for a separating busk. For people who are used to corsets, this is a minor inconvenience. For those who are making their first corset, hear my plea: be CAREFUL putting steel boning into something that doesn't have a separating busk, because you do NOT have a fast release hatch. Many people over-cinch their first time, and you can seriously hurt yourself. If you want to add a busk, plan to add 1" to the center front, and to assemble the corset in two halves.
Overall: 17.5/20, B+
I do recommend this pattern. As far as the big pattern companies go, this had the best initial fit I have experienced. The shaping is great, and for beginners, it is a pretty good introduction to underbust corsets. I do have nitpicks with it, but they are things you can fix with knowledge and research.
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